Unlocking the Magic of Scandinavian Heather and Birch Leafs. Yellow and Green.
- Asia Zięba-Rusevicius
- Jul 5, 2024
- 5 min read
Picture this: deep in the mystical lands of Scandinavia, there's a secret stash of goodies Mother Nature has been hiding for ages (behind my house :P) . These treasures have been the go-to for creating jaw-dropping masterpieces for centuries!
Now, imagine a botanical wonderland where heather and birch reign supreme! Crafters and nature buffs can't get enough of these bad boys. So, buckle up and get ready for a wild ride exploring the fantastical realm of Scandinavian heather and birch as the natural dyes!
There is a commonality of magic shared by these two plants. It is not solely the yellow colouring attributed to their flavonol content, but also their anti-inflammatory properties on the human body. These plants have been utilised in traditional medicine for an extended period and are now subjects of scientific research studies. It feels like they are a magical plants we should be surrounded with. Not only for their beauty but their so large scale of properties.
Vibrancy of Heather_Calluna Vulgaris
Here on the stunning coast of a Norwegian fjord surrounded by hilly forests, you can come across an old forest buddy called Heather (Lyng in Old Norse).
According to legend, the Celts and Scots thought that it brings good luck. The name Heather comes from the Greek word "kalluna," which translates to "to brush." Austrians found out about its medicinal qualities as an herb that can treat kidney diseases. Nowadays, there is an increasing awareness of its anti-inflammatory properties for various other illnesses.
Heather, with its delicate pink and purple flowers, exudes an ethereal charm that is reflected in the dyes it produces. The unique hues derived from heather range from yellow, greens and browny earthy tones, offering a diverse palette for creative endeavours.
This plant, which has been used since ancient times, was one of the plants thought to have been found or used in archaeological findings, along with other yellow dye sources like Genista Tinctoria (broom) and Reseda Luteola (weld) that were used in the Viking era.
The plants that were meticulously collected in the previous year, have undergone a thorough drying process to preserve their essence and properties. This process ensures that the plants retain their beneficial qualities for a longer period.
Now, I am embarking examination of the results obtained from the dried heather.
Birch: Nature's Monochrome Marvel
Betula Pendula/Betula Alba, also known as White or Silver Birch, offers a delicate and elegant color scheme reminiscent of the simplicity and purity of Nordic landscapes, much like heather. This enchanting tree is rich in properties believed to have "Spring cures" and blood-purifying benefits. A revered tree is a Finnish symbol, it provides a wide range of applications, including bark for paper-making, manuscripts, shoes, dye, waterproof adhesive, and birch water. Similarly, its leaves can be used for herbal tea with medicinal properties and color the fabric.
Birch dyes are renowned for their ability to imbue fabrics with a sense of serenity and understated beauty. Whether used alone for a minimalist aesthetic or combined with other natural dyes to create intricate patterns, birch hues add a touch of organic luxury to
any textile project.
Slavic bast shoes. Usually made with bark of the birch tree. Łapcie (in Poland) or Vyzos (in Lithuania).
The Art of Dyeing
Preparing the extract.
So, it all begins with gathering plants and getting them ready. The heather i have collected last fall has been drying out all winter and is good to go now. I've been using every part of the plant. And as for the birch leaves, I picked them a few weeks back in the summer and let them air dry outside.
Collecting Birch leafs this summer and Heather last yet October
The birch leafs were removed from branches and both heather and Birch leafs were filled out with water.
So, basically, I've been heating up both baths to around 90°C and letting them simmer. I've been keeping them simmering for almost 4 hours to make sure they soak well since they were pretty dry to start with.
Every hour or so, I've been checking the plant extract color and giving it a good mix. The bath with Heather turned into a dark tea color (black), while the birch leaves gave a lighter black tea hue.
The smell releasing from both baths is very intense and herbal, while the birch leafs bring much sweater fragrance.
Heather on the left and Birch leafs bath after 3 h if simmering
Preparing fabrics for coloring
From each batch both heather and birch, was collected dye and split into 4 containers.
One was pure with no add mordant. One with soda bicarbonate, and Alumn and Iron water.
Adding different salts into dye-bath you will notice its decolorisation.
All fabrics were earlier prepared by cleaning them properly and pre-mordanting them in Alum.
I have been splitting and trying as always in not warming up bath as well in simmering one, to see different effect. And very often it do not need to be simmered. But noticed this time on the Iron water bath modified, that simmering had intensified the color from green to almost brown.
Simmering never exceeds 70-80 C.
This time i kept for too long and it is tempting to repeat and make it for shorter time.
The colors of Heather dyed fabrics appaers to be more orange and yoke yellow, while those of birch leafs are lighter yellow, softer and cleaner.
I have been testing variety of fabrics from many types of cotton, cotton blends with elastane, and wool and wool blends.
Usually, wool taken color most easy, it is cellulosic fibres are are more resist to dyes. What was different this time. One of the 100% cotton fabric was taking all dyes so well. It has been prepared by me in the same way, but i believe it was prepared for dyeing by supplier in different way. Anyhow, it was a nice experience.
Pure Birch and Heather without add any mordants.
Birch and Heather with Soda Bicarbonate.
Birch and Heather with Alumn.
Birch and Heather with Iron water.
Ultimately, when considering the results of experimenting with natural dyeing using heather and birch, I observe a recurring color palette. Both plants produce shades of yellow, orange, brown, and olive green.
It is a profound connection to nature's poetry, where every hue speaks volumes about the beauty that surrounds us. Let us continue to explore, experiment, and be inspired by the remarkable colors that Scandinavian flora has to offer.
Remember, the next time you gaze upon a heather-covered hillside or a stand of majestic birch trees, you are not just witnessing nature's spectacle – you are witnessing the raw materials of artistry and sustainability.
J
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